Astorga

25km again today, but quite a contrast from yesterday!

After a couple of kilometres the path turned off the road.   Still within earshot of it for a while, but not immediately alongside it, which was a relief.   An open coffee bar with a good selection of breakfast things - so I had coffee, orange juice and a portion of spinach fritata, overlooking the bridge at Puenta de Órbigo.

On the other side of the bridge is Hospital de Órbigo, where the path splits - you can return to the road, or turn right and take the alternative route adding 1.2km.  The markings on the path made it pretty clear which was recommended - turn right (smiley face) or head for the road (frowns and sad face)!   And they were right.

Within even a few hundred yards this was a different experience.  There was birdsong, no longer competing with traffic.  There was the gentle pulse of rural life, cattle in a field.  Rounding a corner was a chap with a scythe over one shoulder and a pitchfork crafted from wood in the other hand.  A short climb up a hill, and a wood bursting with birdsong.  

Red soil and a red path, and a sky so blue Google Photos couldn't possibly 'enhance' it.

And every village had a bar open.  I didn't sample them all ..

Then there was this place - called El Jardin del Alma.

A table with fruit, biscuits, bread, fruit juices and all sorts.   Take what you need and pay what you want.   Other tables with a chess board and other games for anyone interested.  A cat that was uncattishly friendly until it found out all I was eating was an apple.

And so onward, with small hills and valleys, and with mountains increasingly visible in distant views.

Until finally Astorga appeared in the views, and then I'd arrived.

George had gone by bus due to some quite nasty blisters from yesterday - and he'd brought my walking poles which I'd not picked up on the way out and not noticed for a bit over a mile, so that worked out well.  (Well, the plan was a bus, but then the manager of last night's Albergue gave him a lift as he was coming in for shopping anyway).  It also meant he knew where to get beer, which felt rather necessary after the day!

I'm planning a visit to the Cathedral now, then we'll have to see who wants to do what for a meal this evening.