At least one reader of the blog will recognise this picture! With my thanks, Mary, for all you did to send me on this pilgrimage, and indeed for the introduction to this Albergue.
Where did I leave this yesterday? Before a visit to Astorga cathedral - which would be much more impressive if someone hadn't filled the middle of it with a massive choir section somewhere in the 16th century. And before the Mass and pilgrim blessing at the Franciscan Albergue, which was very moving.
And before a meal for six; and farewell to Heidi who has to return home to Germany. But she introduced Sophie, also from Germany, to keep the balance up!
This morning started, on the face of it, badly. Someone has taken my walking poles from the cannister at the entrance to the Albergue. I charitably assume they did so in error, though my charity is slightly mitigated by the fact that they are a bit distinctive (since I've removed the usual bands which go round the wrist and simply annoy me - few poles have that modification).
I'm not going to go on without poles: today's walk would be fine, but tomorrow and thd day after involve quite steep hills, and there's nowhere beyond here that is likely to stock them. So although I was ready to start at 7am, I have to wait until 10 for the appropriate shop to open. But I can get a good sunrise picture...
And there's apparently only one coffee shop in Astorga open this early, and it's crowded with locals, but I can get a coffee and sit at a table outside. And so, it turns out, can Carlos. So we sit and chat. Then George rings - he's sending his main pack by transport to Rabanal, and the transport driver can't find it at the Albergue, and George by now is several km away. Carlos looks after my remaining coffee while I dash back to the albergue and find the pack, take pictures to be sent on to the driver - then by chance find the actual transport driver on my way back and direct him to the right place. Then back to finish the (slightly cooling) coffee! So it was just as well I was held up... A lesson learned; there are reasons for things that just happen, so you go with it and see...
More coffee, orange juice, and another coffee. Caffeine is starting to leak from my pores. The shop owner turns up 10 minutes before opening time and lets me in. It's an Aladdin's cave of a store - you could equip a major expedition here. Poles bought - far better than the old ones - and I'm off by 10:15. Just three hours behind the expected schedule!
It's a good walk, though. A drop in at a Church called Ecce Homo; a candle lit. Immediately by this is a memorial for a pilgrim called Denise, who was attacked on the Camino several years ago - George was one of the last to see her before she was waylaid. Then the gradual ascent starts, which after Rabanal will steepen and end at the Cruz de Ferro sometime tomorrow.
The landscapes have changed. We're moving into the mountains now, and the forests. It's getting beautiful again!
Hiya David ,
ReplyDeleteI've Finally caught up with you. Shame about the poles. Glad you were zble to find a replacdement set